Orkney 1

Moving South we have been on Orkney mainland for a few days. It is difficult not to think in terms of comparisons between the two groups of Islands. Orkney is generally flatter and more fertile and cultivated than Shetland; beef cattle rather than sheep, although there are lots of those too but in fields not on open moorland. It feels more densely populated and better off. There are many more tourists, more organised tourism (coach tours of archaeological sites) and resources for tourists (cafes that are open!). This could simply be because we started in Shetland before the summer season got going, but I don’t think so. 

Coastal cliff-top walks and beaches are equally stunning, if a bit more crowded (i.e. there are some other people as well as us). Some examples all from the western mainland of Orkney, below. 

Beach at Gurness

Near Yesnaby with Brough of Birsay lighthouse

Stack near Yesnaby

Beach at Skara Brae, with excavations of a 3000 BC house in the foreground

Today we took a boat to Hoy and then a minibus to the far South side of the island (Rackwick), stopping off part way to view a nest of white-tailed eagles far away on a rocky cliff above the moorland, aided by an RSPB telescope. Apparently it is 145 years since there were live chicks on Orkney and now two have hatched. The RSPB people were very excited and it was good to see. 

Then we walked to see the Old Man of Hoy, a very high sea stack. It is a challenge for climbers and I remember watching a live BBC outside broadcast in 1967 of the second successful climb ever. They made it dramatic and gripping, somehow like TV coverage of the moon landings. However, today my mild fear of heights wouldn’t even let me close enough to the high cliff edge to photograph the whole stack. Here is just the top.  It was another beautiful day.